![]() ![]() ![]() There's no question these things aren't cheap, and most of us aren't on an unlimited budget. It's just another option for Terry!Figured my comment might hit a nerve. If I had no qualms on cost then sure, LS or Dynamat or any of the name brand things would be the way to go for everything. Tragedy of the Commons, in an interesting way. There are a ridiculous number of "critical" components in these cars, so if I had that mindset about all of them I wouldn't be able to build the car due to cost. will cost just as much or more to do the car. Other heat and sound products, like Dynamat, etc. Personally I'm not going to try to save $50 a gallon (or whatever) for a many multi-thousand dollar project by experimenting versus a proven solution. Regarding cost, I guess it's all relative. IMO in the engine compartment would be hard keep looking nice. While I'm very happy with the final product, it is still a latex material. ![]() The car pictured in the above thread is now legal and a driver. Personally, I would only used on the cockpit side. Here's a thread I started over on the other forum showing my experience with Lizard Skin on my recently completed Mk4 Roadster: Īre you planning to do the cockpit side or the engine side? It's not clear from your original post. It also adds considerable weight so not for a challenge car. I also did not add the small hood scoops and wish I had to promote cool air injected across the headers. Lizardskin reduces the heat transfer but it won't be cool to the touch and you will need shields. One of this years projects will be heat shields on the pass. Last year, we drove to mid-ohio (about 7 hours) and my son melted the soles on his running shoes. Before adding heat shields, I had to be careful not to touch the side of the footbox or else it would be quickly painful. They also nicely seal the aluminum panels to get rid of any gaps and seams between the panels.Īpart from the drum effect, the reduction of noise is minimal, as there are enough pathways that through the aluminum isnt dominant. The products do a very good job of reducing the drum effect and giving weight to the panels. I used Lizardskin - both the sound attenuating and heat product, sprayed both inside and outside. I'll keep you posted if you want, but it'll definitely be in my build thread. I ordered some micro balloons today from Wicks Aircraft Supply and will be trying it out next week when they arrive. Of course you still need an applicator, but that's what HF is for Try around $30-$40 for raw materials of ~3 gallons instead of $90 for one gallon. I've seen a few applications of the DIY stuff and it looks like it could be a very viable option. Using micro balloons in a paint will increase the thermal resistance by adding insulating layers, thereby decreasing heat transfer. While you aren't going to be able to replicate the exact properties of Lizard Skin, thermal conduction and sound deadening are not exactly rocket science. In keeping with my DIY build I looked up alternatives and found this link: I looked up Lizard Skin and it is EXPENSIVE. That's very interesting you bring this up right now because I am going through the same situation. Glad you are in the forum! There are a bunch of great guys here to help. ![]()
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